Culinary criticism: Elza Sīle and Little Vera

July 8, 2014
Author Markus Toompere
Published in Review from Latvia
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Things That Are Not Art, art ration by Gintarė Matulaitytė

Just like the best wine can be ruined if served to the wrong dish, the best lunch or dinner can be ruined if you happen to visit a wrong exhibition before or after it.  To help avoid this confusion, culinary criticism gives advice on matching art and food. Estonia’s leading culinary critic Markus Toompere visited the two ongoing exhibitions at kim? Contemporary Art Centre – Elza Sīle’s “Enlarging Original” (13.06.-28.07.2014) and “Little Vera” by Sanya Kantarovsky and Ella Kruglyanskaya curated by Zane Onckule (13.06.-27.07. 2014) – and this is what he has to say:

NATO food package number two is known to all soldiers as a bad joke. The main course of it is liver souce. In general I adore liver, in my opinion it is a bit underestimated raw material, of which one can prepare wonderful dishes. But here, something unbelievably horrible has been done to it.

It is not just a twaddle, I have many times witnessed myself, that soldiers are not at all choosy. They eat what is given and it’s true. But the liver sauce in the NATO food package is good for only one thing – burying. After trying this sauce for the first time, I discovered that hunger is not so bad after all.